Stormwater & Shoreline Practices

Practical steps any waterfront or watershed resident can take to keep lakes clearer, healthier, and more resilient.

How to Read Your Site (5‑Minute Walk‑Through)

1. During a rain: Where does water collect, sheet, or gush? Note roof, driveway, and path flows.
2. Soils: Dig a small hole and fill with water. If it drains in <24 hours, many infiltration practices are feasible.
3. Slopes: Steeper areas need steps: mini‑terraces, check dams, or infiltration breaks every 10–15 ft of run.
4. Setbacks: Keep practices and excavations outside septic drainfields and property lines as required locally.
5. Sensitive areas: Protect big trees, wetlands, and natural shoreline features.

Rain Garden (Infiltration Basin)

A shallow, planted depression that captures roof or driveway runoff.

• Rule of thumb sizing: 1 inch of runoff from the area draining to it. As a quick start, size the garden to 5–10% of the contributing roof/driveway area.
• Depth: 6–12 in from the rim to the bottom, with a level bottom.
• Overflow: Provide a stable spillway to lawn or another practice.

Permeable Pavement or Pavers

Replaces or retrofits driveways/paths to allow water through.

• Do: Keep joints clean, vacuum annually, block sediment from washing on.

Disconnection

Break up long paved runs with planted strips or gravel trenches.

Swales (Vegetated Channels)

Shallow, grassy/native‑planted channels that move and filter water.

• Use check dams (short ridges of stone/logs) every 10–20 ft on steeper runs to slow flow.

Contour Berms / Micro‑Terraces

Small ridges along the contour to intercept and spread water.

Infiltration Trenches

Narrow, stone‑filled trenches to capture roof leaders or path runoff.

Soil Building

Compost topdressing (¼–½ in) plus aeration improves infiltration on compacted lawns.

Vegetated Buffer

A mix of native grasses, sedges, flowers, shrubs, and trees.

• Structure: Tall plants at the top, shorter near the water; leave natural woody debris where safe.

Bio‑Logs / Coir Rolls

Fiber rolls anchored at the toe of gentle banks to reduce small‑wave erosion while plants establish.

Live Stakes & Fascines

Cuttings of willows/dogwoods installed in bands along the bank to root and bind soil.

Grade‑Only First

Re‑shape steep, eroding banks to gentler slopes before adding rock—hard armoring is a last resort.

Culverts

Sized to pass typical peak flows; align with natural drainage and protect inlets/outlets from erosion.

Water Bars

Angled berms that divert water off long driveways into vegetated areas every 30–75 ft depending on slope.

Maintenance—Small Habits, Big Payoff

Monthly:

Pull weeds in rain gardens, check for sediment buildup, keep inlets/outlets open.

After storms:

Look for washouts; add rock or adjust grades where water concentrates.

Annually:

Top up mulch, prune woody stems, vacuum permeable pavements, test soil if fertilizing is considered.

Every 3–5 years:

Re‑dig or scarify compacted garden bottoms if ponding persists longer than a day.

When Permits or Professional Help May Be Needed

• Significant shore regrading, seawall modification, or work below the ordinary high water line often require permits.
• Use a professional for steep slopes, large retaining structures, or if you see signs of deep instability (slumps, cracks, leaning trees).